November, 14 th Nabari
Momiji climbing. This week we were heading out to a climbing spot in Mie prefecture. We started early in the morning and together with the first sunbeams we arrived at the spot. It was a sharped formed valley with a clear blue river running through. The steep mountains were brightly colored in contrast to the blue sky. It was an amazing view and predicting a beautiful autumn day. Now and then high blank rock rocks protruded from the mountains like tin towers. I couldn’t wait to climb them. Our trip started adventurous. I knew we had to cross a river, but expected knee level of water. I was wrong. The fresh clear water touched my bare feet and immediately I was awake from my sleepiness. My feet started tickling while carefully passing the river. I was glad I removed my pants, the water was as high as my hips. There were some rocks on the grounds to shallow the water, but there were extremely slippery. To my astonishment I stayed dry and soon we were climbing up the colorful mountain towards the climbing spot. It was a beautiful place with amazing vertical cracked walls. The view into the valley was breathtaking. It was six of us and soon we were starting into the first two routes. Since the full area is only crack climbing, there were no bolts and trad climbing, where you have to place your own gear to build mobile protection is requiered. I’m unexperienced in placing gear and since my ankle is still injured I decided to stay in toprope today. In contrary to my climbing partner Bryan, who crazy likes crack climbing, I’m rather weak in this dicipline since it isn’t something you can train in the gym. The first route started with a fist sized crack and I really enjoyed. After half of the route the crack became very large and I completely fitted in. In this situation I desperately helpless and having no idea how to climb it. I moved into the crack and got stuck into. I didn’t fall down, but there was also no way up. I could have stayed there all day. I released my breath and slipped out of the crack. After a few trials to climb up in the crack I started searching for any tiny ledge the smooth face offered. And there was a tiny ledge on the hight of my chin. It was enough to place my food high and stem my body up using the crack’s wall. And I was lucky, I could also pass the second crux almost the same way. I’m sure the route wasn’t meant like this, but I reached the top. The second route was easier for me to solve since it was a finger crack. I back leaned all the way up using the crack like a sharp ledge. It was a lot of fun. It took us a long time for everone to finish and clean up. Afterwards we enjoyed our lunch while the sun was meanwhile in zenith and warming us nicely up. It was such a beautiful and peaceful place. The calmness and peaceful atmosphere entered my body and all recent stress and problems were far away and unreal in this moment. Kazu and me got tired after lunch and enjoyed watching Bryan solving a difficult route. Time was flying in a weird way today, but we were deeply relaxed and didn’t care about anything at all. I enjoyed taking pictures and just be there. My third and last route of the day was short one with a body sized crack. I avoided it again and rather climbed the slab next to it. I solved the crux while just jumping to a hold hoping it would be a good one. It was. It was the coolest move and pure fun though. I love this kind of moves. I enjoyed the view from the top into the valley for a moment. The sun disappeared already behind the mountain rigde, it would be dark soon. Crossing the river again was less smooth and to prevent another injury due to slipping I rather choose to get soaked. The icy water touched my belly button and some high pitched noises came out of me. Kazu was lauging a lot while watching me, but no further accident happened. Mission completed. It got dark as soon as we sat in the car. The end of very nice autumn day, even though there wasn’t that much climbing as usual.
8 thoughts on “Rock climbing at Kaochidani Valley (香落渓の岩場)”
Very nice report and it looks like a cool place to go climbing.
Funny also to read that you solved the Crux by “Jumping” (I guess dyno?) to the hold.
Thanks for the nice post
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Thank you, I’m happy to hear ypu liked.
It is a very lovely place, especially in autumn and a paradise for crack climbers. The area is a also popular destination for hiking.
Yes it was dyno and for me it was way more convinient than using the crack ^^ My climbing partner climbed the crack only and had a hard time…
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Thanks for the reply and the additional info.
A dyno is always very cool move, but requires excellent coordination and enough physical strength. Well done!
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So glad you had a good time. Nabari is my home crag. I’m working on writing an English guide to the area on my blog. Check it out if you want to learn a little more about the area.
I had a look at your website and I really like the concept. It’s a little treasure especially for foreigner climbers 🙂
So glad you made it out to Nabari, hope you had a blast. It’s the training ground for people who have big wall dreams. Check out my blog for access information and more beta about the climbs! Cool to find another climber in Osaka too.
You are very lucky to have this place as your home crag! I was stoked from the very first moment we entered the valley and I could see Morning light walls. I agree that’s the place for big wall dreamers and even though I’m miserable crack climber, my heart started beating fast when seeing these walls. The spot is very unique to those I have been before in Japan. Can’t wait to go back there! Let’s keep in touch!
I’m glad to hear that you were inspired! It’s such a wonderful place. Take care.